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The good | London v Bangkok: no competition says Jo

My very first visit to the land of smiles came less than one year ago in June 2004. In just under three weeks I completed a whistle stop tour of the Southern part of this beautiful country spending just four days in Bangkok. Not long after this trip a decision was made to relocate my partner to Bangkok, inevitably, I followed.
After a brief visit in February this year in which we found and moved into an apartment, I left the UK on 28th March. My research prior to leaving the UK indicated that Bangkok was hot, dirty, with dreadful traffic congestion. It also suggested that the people are accommodating, forever smiling and incredibly friendly.

After just six full weeks into my new life in Bangkok, here are my impressions of the city so far…

I left the UK before any real signs of Spring had emerged so I eagerly anticipated the steamy climate - however I was perhaps unprepared for the heat of April in Thailand. It is so hot that after just five minutes outside of an air-conditioned room I felt like a needed another shower. April is the hottest month here so now I have been through the worst I know that the heat is bearable.

Before departing the UK I worked in London which is a city covered in grime. Although some people who are used to more pristine environments may see Bangkok as a dirty place I believe that it is in fact not much worse than London. It is true that there is the general dirt produced by traffic, however, in most places I have seen so far there is an absence of litter as street sweepers are constantly working.

The traffic problems of Bangkok are perhaps legendary, and I admit that it is bad. Again however, taking London as my benchmark, what I’ve seen so far is not as bad as I was led to expect. In London I rarely take a cab because it is expensive and if you get caught in traffic the money in your wallet just melts away. In Bangkok however the taxis are so cheap that I never consider the cost and instead allow plenty of time to get to my destination and then enjoy the air conditioned taxi whilst watching the world alongside the road go by.

Thailand is often referred to in travel literature as the Land of Smiles. This is very true – the people here really do appear to be smiling constantly and after the miserable expressions that cover the faces of most Londoners I am happy to smile too. For the Thais however their smiles often cover what they are really thinking – my broad smile is because of my good fortune at ending up here.

The Thai hospitality, going hand in hand with the famous Thai smile is very clear in the hospitality industry (and by this I am not referring to the bars for which the Bangkok nightlife is famous!). In hotels, restaurants and bars I have mostly found that the staff are attentive and aim to resolve any problems as soon as possible. An example of this is one evening, when out dining with my partner we decided to have steak in a mid range restaurant. My steak came up perfect however my partner prefers his steak rare and it was served over cooked. Within moments the waiting staff realised his dissatisfaction and replaced it with a freshly cooked rare steak just as soon as they could. In the UK I do not imagine receiving the same level of service unless I was in a top class restaurant.

In leaving my life in the UK behind I was concerned that I would struggle to make friends. However, although I have yet to really get to know any Thai person, I have found that groups of Thais will happily accept a couple of Western strangers into their parties. One evening in the Ratchada entertainment complex my partner, a friend visiting from the UK and myself ended an evening dancing and drinking with a huge crowd of young Thai people. It was one of the best nights out I have had in years. In a similar venue in the UK I would expect to be groped and witness a number of drunken altercations at the end of the evening. On this occasion there was none of that despite us all having consumed a large volume of alcohol.

Perhaps the thing most people expect to see in Thailand is the sex industry. It’s an integral part of the culture here and the tourists it brings in contribute to the economy. I have not been to the famous Patpong, only to Nana Plaza but the bars I have seen here do not offend me. They may be offensive to people of a less liberal disposition but I have had some great evenings out in some of the girly bars. I am always very popular with the girls, the sisterhood means I make friends for the night very swiftly! I have frequently ended the evening dancing with numerous invitations to get up round the pole! Perhaps I may do just that when I have been here a little longer!!

Finally, I currently feel very privileged to be living as a guest in such a country. In six weeks I have visited Phuket twice and eaten out at many fine restaurants, something that in the UK I can only afford to do occasionally. Friends back home read my emails jealously as they too wish that they could retreat to a white sandy beach surrounded by azure sea and palm trees with the same ease as I can. Bangkok and Thailand are not perfect, but with the climate and location I can’t say I’m missing the UK and all the “so called” delights of London.

Posted by Jo at May 16, 2005 06:12 PM

Comments

I remember London from the days of smog, when all the old buildings were covered in soot. In the sixties and seventies these were cleaned, coal / wood fires were banned and there is no smog. London is still dirty - any large city with heavy traffic is dirty (except Singapore), but few have the constant brown dome over them the way Bangkok does. If you approach from the East in the morning (sun behind you) you will see this heavy brown dome over Khrung Thep that is pure pollution (oxymoron?). And the people of BKK are breathing this 24/7.
Discarded rubbish is one thing, but air quality will affect everyone, everything. Until something drastic is done about this (banning private cars, controlling smoke emissions from factories, so on) Bangkok will keep killing it's inhabitants indiscriminately. One year there is ten years off your life.

Posted by: Up2U at May 19, 2005 09:10 AM

This is an interesting article to me, I will be taking the plunge in a little over two weeks and moving to Bangkok. I have been to Thailand many times over the last year and other than the language feel that i'm ready to move.
I've seen many sides to BKK, i've travelled a little in Thailand and over the next few months hope to remedy this and get to most regions. I've chosen Bkk for my home mainly because my Thai Partner as a very good job, also there are Thailanguage schools in abundance. So all the best Jo, maybe see you some time.
P.S. I must admit, the UK as been really beautiful this spring........

Posted by: ceeipee at May 19, 2005 08:48 PM

I think it may be an age thing. When I was a twenty something you would not have draged me out of London. now some 30 years later I almost hate the place. It is not the London I enjoyed. But there are many yourger guys having a great time!

Posted by: Sam at May 23, 2005 12:13 PM

Having lived in London twice in the late eighties and late nineties and witnessed the changes in Bangkok over the past 10 years with now being a more frequent visitor (given my current base of Hong Kong),one can not but notice the substantial improvements in Bangkok.
During the Asian crisis,Bangkok was a dump and I couldn't wait to get out to Chang Mai or to Thailand's beaches but now Bangkok is emerging as a "hip and cool" city.
In Hong Kong - weekly updates are given to 4 Asian cities in terms of whats on - Shanghai,Singapore, Tokyo and Bangkok.
Singapore is dull,small and if you want to live in a "velvet prison" with a Stepford Wife,then may be it is the place for you but the other three cities,like Hong Kong,are vibrant and dynamic.
The Skytrain and the new underground alleviates a lot of the problems for getting around in Bangkok and Bangkok's pollution is no different from Hong Kong where during the day in Hong Kong,on many occasions,you can not see its world famous skyline due to the smog.
In terms of transport and the underground (once they sort out its growing pains) and skytrain,
Bangkok will win over London since London has a 100 year old,antiquated system where you are guaranteed to get dirty and in the summer,sweaty(no air conditioning!).
Lumpini Park reminds me of Hyde Park but you get more days of sunshine in Bangkok to appreciate it and soi Langsuan is the coolest street in South Asia and reminds me of a cross between Notting Hill and Chelsea before it became the places for the super rich.
Siam Square is also emerging as a young,alternative,trendy hangout getting global recognition and Bangkok's direct flights to New York,Milan and Bangalore will also lead to cross cultural influences impacting the city.
I only see one way for Bangkok to go globally as an international city and that is up.The go go bars in Bangkok are increasingly a relic to history and as Thailand gets richer and more confident,you will see Bangkok increasingly catch up to its more affluent cousins.
People seem to forget that New York had its Time Square in the seventies which was a notorious red light zone before the Mayor of New York cleaned it up.
People who complain about Bangkok and the changes to its old "nightlife" where they are looking for cheap sex,can go elsewhere.Thailand does not need their money since there are more tourists and businesses investing increasingly larger amounts of money - that trend will continue from the growing affluence of the Chinese and the "newly monied" people from the UK and the US who have realised their property gains or work in the IT sector and recognise Thailand and Bangkok for what it is,a truly fantastic living experience combining Asia and the West with a uniquely Thai feel.
London will still be the greatest cosmopolitan city in the world but Bangkok is casting its old image and reputation aside and going from strength to strength.

Posted by: Billy at June 20, 2005 10:41 AM

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